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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert located in the West Coast who focuses on silver hair. Among his clientele are Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much damage a regular bath towel can do, particularly for silver or chemically treated hair. A simple switch can really minimize flyaways and damage. A second budget-friendly essential is a wide-tooth comb, to use in the shower. It shields your locks while removing knots and helps maintain the integrity of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with adjustable temperature options. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

DIY bleaching. Internet videos often simplify it, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals melt their hair, snap their strands or end up with striped effects that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. These formulations are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause lasting harm or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. Certain clients overapply colour-correcting purple shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks flat and dull. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with stiff, brittle hair. Another significant problem is using hot tools sans safeguard. If you’re using flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a heat protectant, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest scalp formulas with active ingredients to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps remove residue and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by addressing hormonal imbalances, stress and nutritional deficiencies.

In cases requiring advanced options, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to identify the source rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home fortnightly to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have areas of scalp visibility. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had significant shedding – and also presently during some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say medicated treatments. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the most effective improvements. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Also, high-dose biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the primary purpose of washing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the opposite is true – particularly with flaky scalp, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus